Despite its name, buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) is not a cereal and not a type of wheat. It is the seed of a flowering plant, which is why it behaves like a grain in the kitchen but looks nothing like one in the field.
Not wheat, not even a grass
Wheat, barley and rye are grasses. Buckwheat belongs to the buckwheat family, Polygonaceae. It is a fast-growing annual with heart-shaped leaves on reddish, hollow stems and clusters of small white flowers at the tips. The seeds are triangular, with a kernel inside a tough dark brown or grey rind. A second species, Tartary buckwheat (Fagopyrum tataricum), is used in a similar way and is grown mainly in East Asia.
The NHS describes gluten as a protein found in wheat, barley and rye. Buckwheat is none of these, so it is naturally free from gluten. Because it is used like a cereal but is not one, it is often called a pseudo-cereal.
Where it came from
The USDA describes buckwheat as one of the first crops domesticated in Asia, probably eaten as food in China 5,000 to 6,000 years ago. A 2019 review of the archaeological, pollen and genetic evidence is more cautious. It reports that both cultivated buckwheats are usually thought to come from the uplands of south-western China, but that the Chinese record is thin: just 26 finds across all periods, mostly pollen. The earliest plausibly agricultural buckwheat it identifies is in northern China from the mid-6th millennium cal BP, roughly 5,500 years ago. The authors suggest it probably became a crop across Eurasia by about 2,000 to 3,000 years ago, spreading west by way of the southern Himalaya and the Caucasus towards Europe.
The USDA's plant guide gives later dates for the Atlantic end of the story: buckwheat reached Europe in the 1400s and was taken to North America by colonists in the 1600s. Different sources date these steps differently, and the picture is still being pieced together.
A plant in a hurry
Buckwheat is one of the quickest crops there is. According to the US Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education programme, it can establish, bloom and mature in just 70 to 90 days, with flowers sometimes opening within three weeks of sowing. The USDA notes that the seed ripens about ten days after flowering and shatters soon after, which makes the timing of a harvest important.
It is fussy about frost, which it does not tolerate, and it dislikes heavy, wet or compacted soil. In return it does better than cereal grains on low-fertility land, and its roots are reportedly nearly three times as effective as barley at taking up phosphorus. Its dense canopy shades out weeds, so farmers also grow it as a cover crop and plough it in as green manure.
The flowers are visited by bees and other insects and give both pollen and nectar, which makes buckwheat a honey crop. Britannica adds a pleasing detail: in England it has been considered especially suitable for feeding pheasants.
From seed to kitchen
Once the rind is removed, the kernels are called groats. Cooked and served much like rice, they are known as kasha, a staple in parts of eastern Europe. Britannica notes that buckwheat flour is unsatisfactory for bread, so it is used instead for griddle cakes, alone or mixed with wheat flour. In Japan, soba noodles are made from buckwheat flour.
Our buckwheat
Ours is organic, activated with water and germinated into shoots, then dehydrated below 40°C. That makes it crunchy and ready to eat as it is, with a delicate taste. It is vegan and free from gluten, dairy and soy, and may contain traces of nuts and sesame seeds.
Cooking with it
- Eat it raw in cereal, smoothie bowls and salads.
- Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes for a soft porridge or side.
- Add to cakes and granola.
Sources
- Encyclopaedia Britannica: Buckwheat
- USDA NRCS Plant Guide: Buckwheat
- Buckwheat: a crop from outside the major Chinese domestication centres? A review of the archaeobotanical, palynological and genetic evidence
- SARE: Buckwheat (Managing Cover Crops Profitably)
- NHS: Coeliac disease
- Encyclopaedia Britannica: Kasha
- Encyclopaedia Britannica: Soba
